If you want to win at a game of First World Problems, push your chin out, speak from the back of your throat and, with wistful sadness, say “It’s just so hard to get good wine in First Class.” But, starting this summer, that might not be the case anymore. Domestic carriers have announced – through the tempranillo-stained mouths of their sommeliers – that better wines are coming to their first and business classes.
Picking the wines that will be served at 35,000 feet can be a tricky business because the altitude and cabin pressure can both noticeably affect the taste. According to Bloomberg, that’s why most airlines don’t serve pinot grigio: because “it doesn’t show well in flight.”
And although first-class passengers have had countless reasons to feel smug when they glanced toward the Economy cabin, the quality of the wine being served wasn’t always one of them. The airlines are doing their homework when it comes to improving their wine lists. Delta’s own master sommelier Andrea Robinson samples more than 1,000 different wines when she’s trying to curate a wine selection. Doug Frost, United’s master sommelier, arranges blind taste tests for a beverage committee; American Airlines seemingly does the same thing.
None of the airlines would disclose their wine budgets to Bloomberg, but according to its research, the average cost of a bottle of wine being uncorked in a domestic carrier’s first class cabin is around $15.99, although some airlines said that their, um, cheaper offerings would be replaced in July. Ken Chase, American Airlines beverage consultant, said:
If you’re in our first class or business class, I just assume you’re a joie de vivre-type person, and you travel a lot, and you love food and wine, and I want to give you the best adventure.
And adventure means that premium customers aren’t going to get convenience-store caliber wines. But at least one airline industry analyst thinks that popping bottles might not be the best use of the airlines’ money. On his View from the Wing blog, Gary Leff wrote:
It strikes me that wine can be an especially costly place to invest. […] It’s also very difficult to find inexpensive wines that are good and will appeal to the vast majority of tastes and that can also be a signal of quality as much as actual quality to consumers unfamiliar with wine. Thus I think it’s ultimately an unlikely area for successful investment by US carriers.
Earlier this week, United did announce that it would be serving complimentary beer and wine in Economy (Yes! Economy!) during long-haul international flights. The meal service for those routes to Europe, Asia and Argentina, Brazil and Chile will also be getting an upgrade. Both changes go into effect on June 1, which means that United will finally join American and Delta in offering some free booze to coach customers. Sandra Pineau-Boddison, United’s senior vice president of customers, said:
The changes to come on June 1 will deliver an elevated onboard experience on many of our intercontinental flights and will offer travelers the high level of service they expect from a global airline.
Raise that glass, air travelers, and let’s toast to free beer or slightly better wine.